I met Elena in Rodrigues.She was from Yacht Nicole and had sailed around the world for almost ten years.When the first time we talked,I got a feeling that we could be good friends.My ESP told me so.
週末的港口冷冷清清,只有少數幾家商店還開門營業,我們一船三人從Mountain Limon健行下山,遇見正在圖書館外使用無線網路的Elena。她來自西班牙籍帆船Nicole,整個港裡只有三艘帆船,之前雖照過面卻沒機會交談,她和Captain kurt已經在這個港口停留一個禮拜了,看到初來乍到的我們,她熱情地對我們打招呼,我們彼此交換在Rodrigues島上的新發現,Elena介紹我們幾家隱身在巷弄裡的餐廳,讓饑腸轆轆的我們終於吃了一頓美味的當地料理。
To possess and to lose are two sides of the same coin.No matter which side lands up the other is still there waiting to be turned over.we possess or we lose by how we interpret and react to everything that happend.
擁有與失去就如同一塊銅板的兩面。到最後,無論哪一面朝上,另一面始終在哪裡等待翻身。是擁有或者失去,就看我們如何解釋與回應發生的一切!
Captain Hiro often said that "Sailors have weak legs.We don't use our legs a lot like walking,riding bicycles while we are sailing.We should go hiking to train our legs."
It was a Sunday afternoon.Most of stores were closed.The streets were empty.Only the locals had a little specialty goods display by the port."Where should we start our hiking trip?"asked Yuuki.We read the map and discussed zealously. "How about going to the mountain top?We can see the view of this island.How about the Mountain Limon?It's the highest.What do you think?"I said and pointed to a triangle mark in the middle of the map."That sounds good.Let's explore it!"said Captain Hiro.
There was a big bus station near the port.The buses here were colorful.We took a yellow one.Most of locals didn't speak English but French.We showed the car steward where we wanted to go.He nodded his head and had a funny smile on his face.The bus went uphill slowly.You could see the shinning silver sea on one side and the green forests on the other.But the bus speed was...very slow.It was about 5 knots (1 knot= 1.852 km) with a loud noise from the engine."I am worried about its engine.It sounds over heat."Captain Hiro said jokingly.We all bursted into laughter.We were fed up with the engine problem in Maldives and now we joked about it a lot.
The bus passed many little villages and farms in the mountains.Suddenly the bus stopped in a desolate area.The car steward waved his hand and yelled "Mountain Limon!" to us."Really? What the hell are we?"we all wondered.
It started to rain.We were stuck near Mountain Limon with no local people around."Whose idea to Mountain Limon?"said Captain Hiro."Hey,guys,don't forget you all agreed with that."We looked at each other and laughed. We waited till the rain stopped and then had a cool and relaxing hiking on the hill.
We hiked downhill and passed a little village.A cute boy peeped at us through the bush with his pig.I guessed it was a surprise for him to see three Asians walking near his house.I enjoyed the time and the fresh air in the mountains.We had had enough of the sea.It was great to embrace the green nature and exotic views on land.That afternoon we had great local food in the restaurant with a beautiful sunset.The horizon was tinged with reddish orange.Oh,it was a good hiking day!
Rodrigues Island is a little jewel off the northeast coast of Mauritius.It has a population of approximately 38,000 inhabitants originating from several countries of Africa, Europe and Asia. Most people speak Creole and French although English is the official language.They use French and English in administration and on social occasions respectively.This island got its name from the Portuguses ship's pilot,Diego Rodrigues,who discovered it in February 1528.
Rodrigues是模里西斯東北方的一座火山小島,人口現約有近四萬人,居民大多是歐亞非洲後裔。由於模里西斯特殊的歷史背景,法文與英文是其官方與正式場合所使用的語言,而Creole則是地方語言,據當地友人說,Creole是一個先民用語與法語混合的語言。它的名字來自於西元1528年第一位發現這座島的葡萄牙水手,Diego Rodrigues!
I woke up very early in the morning.It was the first time I slept on land since the day I joined Yaima.I longed for a hot shower but...disappointedly...the hot-water heater in this guest house was broken.I decided to have a morning walk in the village.It was Sunday.There were empty streets and all the stores were not open.Where were PEOPLE?
Rodrigues is an island of volcanic origin.It is 560 kilometers from north east of Mauritius.This island is curled up in a lagoon twice its size.It is home to several species of endemic tropical flora and fauna and the unspoiled environment for the nature lover seeking tranquillity.
Rodrigues 是一個火山作用所形成的小島,周圍有珊瑚礁島環繞,位於模里西斯東北方約560公里處。
On August 1st,we arrived the Port Mathurin of Rodrigues.It was a sunny Saturday morning.The Rodrigues Coast Guard showed up and leaded us into the harbor.We raised a yellow quarantine flag when we went into the port.We dropped our anchor and waited for the officials from Rodrigues Customs,Immigration and Coast Guard.
After three wonderful days in Salomon atoll,we had enough rest but not enough time to explore all the islands.It was time for us to sail away.I hope the nature beauty here can be preserved from human activities forever.
One time Captain asked Yuuki and I how long we wanted to stay in Salomon atoll if we could.I stared at the peaceful lagoon and the bluish green water."um...as long as we can...it's so beatiful here"I said." I was always busy for work and busy for doing things.I always have a lot of things to finish.In this uninhabited atoll,suddenly I got a lot of free time for myself.I can fix my boat,read,go swimming,go fishing....so much free time...when I was in Japan,I never had time to finish reading a book."said Captain.It was great to learn how to relax and enjoy the moment in salomon atoll.But we had to leave to the next stop as planed.
Reading became a main amusement on the boat while sailing.I did a book swap with Karin on Yacht Moon Walker before we left.Sailors are bookworms!
By the simple act of strapping on a mask and wearing fins, a whole new world becomes available and real!!!
In Salomon atoll,we can go for an unlimited snorkeling whenever we like.Due to the whale's death,there were many sharks in this lagoon.They said it was better not to go snorkeling near the whale carcass area.You might be kissed by sharks.We went to the other side of the lagoon.I got to say that it was a perfect spot for any person to peep into the hidden facinating world!It was so marvelous."Su go i !" a few words I could shout out without thinking in Japanese!
It was a shining Sunday.The tide was low.We went close to the reefs between Takamaka island and Fouquet island.Captain said that" reefs are the great spots to snorkel and examine the nature of water and marine flora and fauna."We went snorkeling in Maldives before.Maldives had been rated as number one site for snorkeling because of its diverse underwater world.I thought in Salomon atoll,it was more beautiful than where I went snorkeling in Maldives.The tropical Indian Ocean was really beautiful.
On Saturday afternoon,we went fishing in Yaima's anchorage.Our neighbor Russell told us there were a lot of fish in this lagoon.It sounded like that the fish took whatever you prepared for them.We couldn't wait to try our luck and imagined that maybe we could have sashimi(さしみ) for dinner tonight.
We spent whole afternoon going fishing but we had bad luck.Russell gave us a basket of his fishy bait and wished us good luck.We kept trying the new bait and different spots.We went fishing till the sunset.Captain refused to take defeat lying down.He tried it till the time that we had to leave for the bonfire party."Never give up!" as he always said.But when we just heard that the Canadian couple just got two 13kg fishes from the radio.We couldn't help wondering that was it just because we got bad luck ...or we were just not good at fishing.
I woke up in the early morning.The sun was just rising up.It was so peaceful here.I sat on the deck ,looked at the bluish-green sea and those uninhabited coconut islands.It was so quiet and relaxing.After many days seasick,those beautiful islands comforted me little by little. One time Yuuki and I chatted about uninhabited islands.We both agreed that it was not a romantic journey to get to those isolated islands like what we imagined before.Most of the isolated islands were far from civilization.You got to sail for many days to get there.Becouse of the far distance,the Nature resources and wild lives were preserved well. It's romantic for me to have encounter with the amazing nature and cruisers from all over the world in Chagos.
On Saturday morning,we explored the Takamaka island.Russel and karin told us there was a well on that island.Lon time ago,there were people living there.We got on that island by our dinghy.The sea was turquoise blue.It was so clear that you could see those colorful coral through the water.
We went into the coconut jungle.There were green coconut trees everywhere.We found the well.You could get fresh water to wash clothes there.
In the jungle,there were so many mosquitoes that almost drove me crazy.I couldn't stay there for even one minute.Captain suggested to take a picture there.Yuuki and I smiled bitterly.As soon as I heard the click sound from the camera ,I ran out of the jungle immediately ."Ahhhhh~so itchy in the jungle!"I cried out loudly.
On July 24th,we arrived Salomon atoll of Chagos.Entering into Salomon Atoll was a slow process because of large coral outcrops in this area and the entrance to the lagoon was narrow.It was good for us to get there in the early afternoon with good light for viewing the coral reef.When we were entering the atoll,it came a sudden gust of wind and rain.We sailed into the squall slowly and suddenly somebody hailed us from Radio Channel 16 .It was from cruisers who anchored in this beautiful lagoon.Sten from Yacht Mata'irea gave us suggestions for a nice anchorage.We were happy to meet people after five days sailing on the sea.
進入Salomon atoll後,我們的船就停在Ile fouquent這個椰子樹多到要噴出來的小島前!這個礁湖裡一共停了6艘船,除了一艘來自加拿大的船,遠遠停在另一邊的Ile Anglaise小島外,其他五艘船都停泊在Fouquet小島附近!後來我們有機會認識這艘來自加拿大的船,它是一對年近七十的老夫婦所擁有,已經停留在Salomon atoll六個月了!這是他們27年的航行生涯中,第七次到Salomon atoll來!我想他們一定非常喜愛這個環礁吧!
There were many little islands surrounded this lagoon.We anchored next to a catamaran called Moon Walker and near the Fouquet island , an island full of shining green coconut trees.At that time,there were six sailboats anchored in this lagoon.Most of us anchored near Fouquet island,only a Canadian yacht anchored at the other side just near Anglaise island.We met them the next day.The Canadian couple were about sixty something.In their 27 years sailing journey, they had come to this atoll for seven times.Each time,they stayed as long as they could.They had stayed in Salomon atoll almost for six months .It was a long time.They loved this atoll very much.
(照片取自網路)
我們一停好船,船長,Yuuki和我就一起去拜訪Yaima旁邊的一艘雙體船Moon Walker,水手Russell和Karin是一對來自紐西蘭的年輕夫妻,約莫四十歲左右,他們已經航行世界三年了!Russell說這些無人小島裡有許多的野生鳥類,對人類毫不設防,你可以和他們近距離接觸到大眼瞪小眼的地步;礁湖裡的魚多到爆,隨便丟個魚餌都可以釣到魚!聽起來有些誇張!船長說明天我們就來釣魚吧!哇~新鮮的Sashimi聽起來挺誘人的!
Almost paradise!We're knocking on heaven's door.Almost paradise!How could we ask for more? I swear that I can see forever in your eyes.Paradise!(From the song by Mike Reno & Ann Wilson)
We had confirmed that after passing the equator on a southerly heading, the temperature did decrease little by little at night and it was wintertime in the South Indian Ocean. Captain Hiro said "It will be against the wind if we sail directly to Mauritius.It won't be a pleasant sailing. It is better to head more south to Chagos archipelago.We can get trade wind after Chagos." Where is Chagos archipelago?I couldn't see it on "my" world map."You could see it on the sailing map. The archipelago is isolated and at the very center of the Indian Ocean.It is 1930 kilometers north-east to Mauritius.Those islands are part of the British Indian Ocean Territory.I don't know much about this archipelago though.It will take about 3 to 4 days from Addu atoll to Chagos islands. "said Captain."Three or four days?God!I hope I won't get seasick.Chagos!It sounds very exotic!Huiling!Ganbatteyo!"I said to myself.
Equator:The latitude of the equator is 0°. The length of Earth's equator is about 40,075 kilometres.The surface of the Earth at the equator is mostly ocean.There is no summer, winter, autumn or spring near the Equator.
赤道:緯度0°,全長40,075 公里,赤道所涵蓋的地球表面大部份是海洋,無四季之分!
On the day we left Maldives,there was a beautiful rainbow on the sky.It was a good farewell from Maldives.After a light rain,there was a bright golden path on the sea.It was a sunny day.We were sailing south to Chagos.The wind was from south-west.Yaima sailed smoothly .The speed was about 6 to 7 knots.Captain said that"If the wind keeps going in this direction,We may get the southest atoll of Maldives tomorrow.Let's go snorkeling there."It was great to go snorkeling with Captain Hiroshi and Yuuki.They swam freely like fish and always showed me good spots under the sea.
There was no moon at the first night on the open sea.The countless stars spreaded all over the inky sky.I was on the night shift for watching.The wind suddenly changed the direction.It started to rain.The main sail was flapping.Captain and Yuuki climbed out of the cabin and adjusted the mail sail and jib sail.They spoke in quick Japanese.Captain yelled the order to Yuuki.They cooperated to get the work done quickly.I thought I needed to know more about sailing so that I could help more but language was a problem for me.One time,Captain Hiro saw me reading an article about sailing skills,he told me that "You don't need to read this.You have a good sailing book in front of you---Captain Hiroshi!Of course people need to know the basic knowledge about sailing when they want to sail on the open sea.What you really need is practice.Real practice!"It was true.I almost forgot everything about sailing.What I am good at is always communicating with locals and friends from all over the world.I just enjoyed sailing itself ,meeting different people and exploring the unknown world.
In the early morning on July 22nd,we past the equator at 6 o'clock (10 o'clock JP time)on the Indian Ocean.We were in the Southen Hemisphere!It was the first time in my life!After passing the zero degree latitude ,we were passing from summer in the northern hemisphere to winter in the southern hemisphere.In the Navy,they called sailors who have already crossed the equator "Shellbacks" and those who have not "Pollywogs"."Pollywog is the lowest form of sea life,a tadpole.The larva stage of frogs and toads.There was a crossing tradition which was created as a test for experienced sailors to ensure their new shipmates who were capable of handling long rough times at sea.
When people think of Maldives, they imagine the beautiful white sand beaches, green coconut trees, crystal clear blue sea, amazing sea lives and the largest number of atolls in their minds. “ What is atolls?” I asked Captain when I heard it first time. “ An atoll is a ring-shaped coral reef surrounding a lagoon. Surrounding the whole lagoon is a ring reef that falls off into the sea on the outer side. The reef are many small individual islands consisting of coral and gravel.” There is no doubt of the nature beauty here. After staying here for a while, I think there are two different worlds in Maldives---the resort life and the local life.
On Saturday, the engineers came in the early afternoon. Mr. Rizard winked at me and took out a new gasket from his bag. “Great!” I cried out. I had a feeling that they would repair the engine today. They changed the gasket and examined every tiny engine part carefully. I have to say this Vovle engine is very “delicate”! The repairing work went smoothly. Then suddenly, Mr. Rizard frowned at the engine. They found a leaking problem of a pipe. After all, just like the Captain always said” This engine is good but it is twenty-one years old. Sometimes there were problems but most of time it did a good job.” Mr. Rizard said that he would bring the pipe back today and fix it then they could finish all the work tomorrow. “ No tomorrow ! Today ! “ I insisted.
We couldn`t wait for another tomorrow. We had a little meeting. Captain would watch them repairing and Yuuki was our dinghy driver. I could go to the Volvo shop in Male and found someone to fix it. It sounded a good idea for us. I took on the ferry and brought the pipe to Male and talked to the shop manager, anyway, I thought when you really wanted to do something, the whole universe would get your message and come for help. One staff took it to the factory and made it fixed! It was the most effective thing that happened in Maldives. When I jumped on the ferry back, it was about evening. They finished all the work very late that night and checked every part of the machine twice. Oh, our engine started to work smoothly. The engine working sounded perfect. Everyone stared at the machine and smiled. Thank God! The engine nightmare turned to a good ending. We thanked for the engineers hard working. “ Now you can use the engine. No problem! “said Mr. Rizard. Anyway, we got some discount form this repairing work but no money could buy the precious time back.
We would sail south the next day.
Captain said we were going to visit a new atoll in the south. We would go snorkeling there. Yes! Tomorrow is a new day!
During the stay in Maldives , we went snorkeling, had some sightseeing and did a lot of reading. Then finally we got our engine special tools made. Mr. Rizard said that he would come to our boat at 10 o`clock in the morning. ”Do you think they will show up on the jetty at 10?”asked Captain. Definitely NOT! We should call him first. When he heard my SWEET voice, he said urgently “ We are on our way. We are on our way. Get special tools,go to the ferry and meet you on the jetty!”. He was so scared to get my phone call. I felt that I was a cold-blood woman with a grin on my face. After staying in Maldives for almost half month, we kind of understood the relaxing way people did things here. We guessed the engineers would show up after 2 hours. We waited and called and waited, they finally got on the jetty at almost four o`clock. Oh! My! It was a tiresome job to wait for people and they were so late ! I was wondering that if there was anything wrong with their watch. How come they could be so late and still could smile at you without any apology.
When they got on the boat, Captain was reading his thick Japanese novel” The King of the Ocean” with a serious expression on his face. I knew he was not happy about their lateness. There was not much conversation between us just the sound of the mechanical working. They worked till the evening and then I felt there was something wrong. Mr. Rizard and Mr. Omartsu sat on the deck resting and talking in the local language .It sounded like they got some problems. Captain walked to them and asked them how was the work going. Mr. Rizard finally told us that the broken piece had fallen into the heart of engine accidentally. They had to remove the engine, take out the broken piece and maybe replace a new gasket. “ Oh, no! You broke my engine….you are so….oh! Now we need a new gasket. Can you fix it tomorrow? Can you get a new gasket here or we have to order it from Sweden ? “ It was unbelievable about Mr. Rizard`s answer. “ It`s Friday tomorrow. You know the religious holiday in Maldives . No work on Friday! “ said Mr. Rizard. How strong the faith he has in his religion! “ In my world, it`s a working day. It`s a working day in Swenden, too. Call your company to order a gasket tomorrow and call it now .” Captain talked to the manager on the phone and he promised us to order it and finish the engine repairing work on Saturday.
| Sun | Mon | Tue | Wed | Thu | Fri | Sat |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 |
| 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 |
| 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 |
| 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 |
| 29 | 30 |
